Geykhera is an attractive and undemanding decorative leafy crop that can thrive on poor soil. These two advantages make Heuchera a desirable plant in summer cottages and backyards.
But no matter how unpretentious Heuchera is, she still has some requirements. From our article you can find out:
Dear gardeners and gardeners! Today we will talk with you about Heuchera, which became popular about 20 years ago, and since then its varieties have spread widely throughout the temperate climatic zone. Whatever heuchera you can find now: from black to light green, red, pink, yellow, with all sorts of overflows of colors and shades. Heuchera flowers are generally inconspicuous, however, with abundant flowering, they can become an additional decorative element.
There are no serious problems with growing heuchera. Heuchera prefers poor and dry soils, but does not tolerate excess acidity, so before planting Heuchera, soil the soil well.
Heuchera also does not tolerate stagnation of moisture in the roots, but he loves spraying the leaves very much. If your site has heavy clay soil, then when planting Heuchera, you must lay good drainage: put more gravel, broken brick on the bottom of the pit when planting, or simply fill in a thick layer of sand, and thanks to this, Heuchera bushes will remain compact and will not rip out.
The root system of heuchera is predominantly superficial, as is the main vegetative mass - the shoots of heuchera. Because of this, in many regions, especially where snowless winters often occur, Heuchera suffers from freezing. To prevent the plant from dying from frost, it is necessary to mulch the soil well in the fall and build the same shelter for the plant as for the bearded iris.
Geichera looks great on alpine hills and under the crowns of young trees. It also grows in dense shade, but it forms a too loose bush, but under the seedlings it belongs: while the tree grows, the Heuchera will have time to grow. Subsequently, you can form borders, ridges from it and combine it with the plants with which it gets along.
It's amazing how Heuchera can be combined with Hosta, because at first glance they are so different! However, both hosta and geykhera are very plastic, so it is necessary to create average conditions for them: partial shade, a very moderate amount of fertilizers so that geykhera does not fatten and its bushes are not loose. If you can do this, then the neighborhood in one flower garden of these two dissimilar plants will be very harmonious.
Heuchera can be planted next to such conifers as rocky juniper and Cossack juniper. The combination of conifers and geychera makes the composition unique and environmentally sustainable.
Heuchera is practically not damaged by pests and diseases and therefore does not require any special protective measures. From a huge number of varieties of Heuchera, you can choose such combinations of color and texture that you can only imagine. Heuchera leaves are more or less cut, more and less wavy, large and smaller, and the variety of shades in which these leaves are painted is simply amazing.
I hope you will definitely find varieties of Heuchera, from which you will create a large and beautiful flower garden. Plant carnations, various grains, sedges in it. Grasses with brownish-red leaves will be especially effectively combined with heuchera. Together, these plants will create a beautiful and lasting texture. Plant such a garden near your porch or gazebo so that you can look at it when you are having tea, drinking your morning coffee, or having an evening get-together. This plant will rest your eyes and cheer you up.
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Gatsania is known and loved all over the world for its bright petals and similarity to chamomile. It is great for decorating a garden bed or balcony of a multi-storey building. Before planting gatsania in the open field, the cultivation and care of it should be studied as much as possible so that the flowers are large and delight their owners.
Thanks to the work of breeders, at this time there are just over 20 hybrid varieties of anemones. And they all differ not only in appearance and color of flowers, but also in structure, degree of frost resistance, planting and care requirements. Despite this variety, all hybrid varieties share the following growing conditions:
The root system of anemones is of two types - tuberous and rhizome. Therefore, the rules for caring for them are different.
Rhizome perennials are not fastidious and, if the recommendations for care and cultivation are not followed, they react only with a short flowering period or a loss of the brightness of the flowers.
But tuberous anemones when grown in the open field are very critical to the violation of any conditions of detention. And more often than not, non-observance of simple rules leads to the death of the entire plant.
All types of anemones are united by a weak root system. Both tubers and rhizomes have low resistance to root rot.
Plants should not have traces of diseases and pests, since only healthy and strong seedlings are the key to a rich harvest.
In addition, seedlings must reach a certain height before "moving" into open ground. Moreover, each culture has its own indicators.
The Temp-f1 cucumber variety is universal, and the method of planting is determined by climatic conditions. Seeds can be applied to open ground if spring comes early and frost is not expected, and the soil is sufficiently warmed up. In more northern regions and the central strip, seedlings are planted in greenhouses.
The air temperature must be stable at least 18 o C at night. For irrigation, water is harvested in advance; it is heated before irrigation. Usually, all sowing work related to Temp-f1 cucumbers is carried out in May-June.
The material for sowing temp-f1 cucumbers for seedlings is laid in the ground in the last decade of May, deepening into the soil a couple of centimeters. The distance between the beds is maintained up to 50 cm. After friendly shoots appear, the plants are thinned out. As a result, up to 3 cucumbers are left per meter row.
Cucumber beds for the Temp-f1 variety are formed from fertile soil. If necessary, sprinkle up to 15 cm of nutrient soil on the surface. It is important to take into account some of the nuances:
If pumpkin crops were the predecessors of Temp-f1 cucumbers, you should not expect good harvests.
The optimum temperature for planting seeds in the ground is 16 - 18 ° C. After sowing, the sprinkled seeds are mulched with peat (layer 2 - 3 cm).
Cucumber seeds Temp-f1, do not deepen into the ground by more than 3 - 3, 5 cm. Wait for seedlings, having previously covered the beds with foil or plexiglass. In the middle zone of the country, sowing works with cucumbers are carried out in late spring - early summer.
The seedling method of growing allows you to get the first harvest one and a half to two weeks earlier. The method is predominantly suitable for growing in colder regions.
It was noticed that Temp-f1 cucumber seedlings do not tolerate diving, and there are also certain growing rules, adhering to which you can fully assess the yield of the variety.
What you need to know about growing temp-f1 cucumber varieties:
When transplanting Temp-f1 plants into open ground, preference is given to those with thick stems, short gaps between nodes and a rich green color.
Proper care of Temp-f1 cucumbers is to prevent the influence of frost on seedlings, timely fluffing, irrigation and feeding. To exclude the effect of low temperatures, special shelters and arcs are used. If the surface of the soil is not covered with mulch, the upper crust should be loosened and the soil crusts removed. After the doge and watering, the moist soil must be fluffed. Warm water is used for irrigation. Preference is given to drip humidification.
Temp-f1 cucumbers are fertilized alternately with organic (bird droppings or slurry) and mineral fertilizers. In order to strengthen the plant as much as possible, to increase the resistance to parasites and diseases, it is better to add seedlings immediately after precipitation or irrigation.
The formation of bushes has a great influence on the yield of cucumbers Temp-f1. If cultivation is carried out on a trellis, the leaves located below do not rot and remain dry. The method is preventive and excludes the development of powdery mildew.
The collection of watercress greens occurs already 15-30 days after the first leaves appear on it. Usually the ripening period depends on the variety of the planted plant.
The salad is cut immediately before eating, it is practically not subject to storage. The cut plant can lie no more than two days in the refrigerator.
If you store the salad in the refrigerator, the greens gradually change their taste and lose their beneficial properties.
Cut the salad into small bunches with ordinary scissors. The harvesting procedure begins no later than 7 days, when the first leaves appeared on the plant. It is often recommended to do this in order to preserve the pleasant taste of the plant. The longer it is in the ground, the worse its taste changes, and the useful properties also gradually disappear.
Cucumbers Temp-f1 is a recognized short-fruited variety. It begins to bear fruit early, has a pleasant fresh taste and a wide range of culinary uses. Farmers loved the pest-resistant plants and no need for diving. The impression is not overshadowed even by the excessively high price for seeds, since the result obtained in the season satisfies the consumer's taste preferences.